I clawed up the steep mountainside near Leon, Spain, digging my fingernails into clay to steady my body, pitched forward under my pack. Step, claw. Step, claw. Step. Heavy clouds threatened to ...
The growing popularity of the Camino de Santiago has spurred the revival of a newly marked 68.5-mile pilgrimage in south-east England. I was balancing on one leg, arms outstretched like a scarecrow. I ...
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