Wild goose recipes get a bad rap. Goose meat is “often, yet unfairly, maligned,” as my friend Mark Norquist of Modern Carnivore likes to say. Or there’s the joke, “How to properly cook a goose,” which ...

Wait, no, really? Swordfish, brined and smoked the way you’d do if you were turning a chunk of beef into pastrami, then served up in a semblance of a Reuben sandwich? There we were, the motley crew of ...