Ever since the western world encountered surfing, as performed by natives in Hawaii and French Polynesia, they began to write about it. One of the first accounts came from Captain James Cook, who, ...
The Register Book Club picked Peter Heller and his memoir – “Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave” – to feature for our next public event on Oct. 20. That’s ...
Jim Heimann is cultural anthropologist, graphic design historian, and an author of books on architecture, pop culture, and California history. Now — as you can clearly see here — he has produced, ...
Some things lend themselves to literature. No-one’s going to sit down and read History’s Great Accountants Vol. III, but surfing books… surfing books are like a rip tide, pulling you out to sea. And ...
Surf literature isn't, always, an oxymoron. And sure there’s a load of books out there in the Amazon warehouses that depict surfing in all its forms. Autobiographies, biographies, coffee-table ...
It’s a fair wager that few people have spent as much time thinking of, obsessing over, focusing on and writing about surfing and all it encompasses as Sam George. Born in 1956, George found surfing as ...
View post: Inside the Sober Fitness Community That’s Rewriting the Rules of Recovery View post: Jack Daniel’s Latest Distillery Series Release Is Its Sweetest Experiment Yet—and It'll Be Gone Before ...
Given how long surfers have been trying to explain the spiritual and transformative powers of riding waves, it is downright shocking that Jaimal Yogis’s book, Saltwater Buddha, is the first of its ...