The Mott Is Wonderfully Quaint; Another Rave for the Standard GrillPlus: Alan Richman braves the trek to Umi Nom, and Danyelle Freeman likes the Mott, in our weekly roundup of restaurant reviews.

I've always judged a restaurant as much − if not more − by the atmosphere it presents as the food it serves. Are the lights soft enough? Is the music in tune with the vibe? And, most importantly, are ...